5 Proven Strategies for Maintaining a Healthy Lawn

• Should I Collect My Clippings When Mowing?: No, it is generally not advisable to collect clippings from your lawn during mowing. Several reasons support this practice.
• Nutrient Return: Clippings return a significant amount of nutrients to the lawn, aiding in fertilization.
• Thatch Reduction: Clippings do not contribute to thatch formation, providing an alternative to excessive thatch accumulation.
• Landfill Reduction: There is no need to dispose of clippings in landfills, as they can be utilized as a natural fertilizer.
• Nutrient Recycling: Clippings can recycle up to 15% of the food value of lawn fertilizer applied. This means that lawns that “grasscycle” (allowing clippings to remain on the lawn) can be greener and better nourished than those where clippings are removed.
• Accelerated Nutrient Return: Clippings have a high water content, which facilitates their rapid decomposition. This process releases both moisture and lawn fertilizing nutrients back into the soil.
• By allowing clippings to remain on the lawn, you can tap into the natural cycle of nature and save time and effort during routine lawn mowing.

    Thatch is the layer of living and dead roots and stems that accumulates on the soil’s surface. While a small amount of thatch is beneficial, excessive accumulation can lead to various lawn maintenance challenges. The misconception arises from the belief that grass clippings contribute to thatch formation. However, this is not the case. Thatch primarily consists of roots and stems, not grass blades. Bagging grass clippings does not effectively reduce thatch buildup. In fact core aeration proves to be a more effective method in controlling thatch accumulation compared to bagging grass clippings.

    The primary guideline for grass growth is maintaining a high mowing height. A lawn maintained at the appropriate height retains its green color, effectively controls weeds, conserves water by shading the soil, and enhances its ability to produce food. Weed and crabgrass seeds require ample sunlight and heat to germinate. Consequently, taller grass serves as an effective weed prevention strategy. Additionally, mowing at a higher height reduces water evaporation. However, cutting the grass too short or in large increments can result in scalping. When the blade is set too low, it can remove most of the plant’s food-producing components, leading to a brown lawn that takes an extended period to recover.

Some recommended Mowing Heights:

– Bermuda Grass 1” to 2” – Zoysia Grass 1” to 2” – Centipede Grass 1½” to 2” – St Augustine Grass 3½” to 4” – Tall Fescue Grass 3” to 4” – Bluegrass 2½” to 3” – Perennial Ryegrass 2½” to 3” – Fine Fescue 2½” to 3½”

    Mowing at the appropriate frequency is the second grass care principle for maintaining your lawn in optimal condition. Grass growth rates vary significantly throughout the seasons. Turf grass exhibits higher top growth during spring and fall, necessitating a mowing schedule that aligns with these growth patterns. During periods of rapid growth, once a week may not be sufficient, while every ten days may be appropriate during the summer months. The key to determining mowing frequency lies in avoiding the removal of more than one-third of the total blade height during a single mowing session.

    Every year, we receive numerous inquiries regarding lawns that appear brown despite periods of rainfall and cooler weather. In almost every instance, this is the consequence of a dull mower blade shredding the grass tips. When a blade is dull, it rips the turf rather than cutting cleanly. The torn tips then bleach out and turn brown, resulting in a tan or brown cast throughout the lawn. Typically, having the blade sharpened and balanced once annually is insufficient, especially for larger properties. To ensure your grass thrives, you should periodically touch up